Thursday, October 22, 2009

last entry

On the late train from Hong kong to Kowloon...a very crowded one...we were lucky to get these seats. And as we tiredly sit down I take my camera out...signal non-verbally to a man standing nearby...hand him the camera...he nods in acknowledgement...and voila.

what a long, wonderful trip it's been!

Friday, October 16, 2009

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Epilogue

So we now have arrived home. Since the last posting we have flown to Hong Kong, visited a giant buddha via cable car, spent the evening in the Kowloon district...the old city across from Hong Kong metropolis. It has been exhausting these last several days but the encounters have been well worth the adventure. It will now be time to digest this experience, sort the photos, and resume our lives here in Rhode Island.

Many years ago as I was ending an Outward Bound sailing experience in Maine... as a team we engaged in processing our 30 day sail along the coast line. The trip was impactive in many ways.
Our team leaders facilitating this process would pose the question..."so what...you've been on this trip...how will it make a difference in your life...?" Over the years there have been many instances where that particular experience wove its way into my life, my work, my role as a parent, husband, and friend. And now I begin to ponder how this trip...the return to 'Nam will weave its way into my contemporary world.

What will be everlasting will be the encounters, the faces, and the interactions with the people of Vietnam. We had not one negative encounter. We experienced a population that seems to have resolved any ill feelings towards the states. As Americans we seem to be in good standing in the eyes of the people. Quite an irony really considering our role in their recent history.

That is about as prophetic as I can be for the moment. What just comes to mind now are Bob Marley's lyrics.."one love, one heart...let's get together and feel alright..."

I think these lyrics initially sum up what we shared with the Vietnamese people.



tam biet- goodbye

hong kong buddha and beer


sky line to Buddha in Hong Kong

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

"Former enemies"


Halong Bay



While on this trek I taught the crew several of my favorite knots, we met a couple from Chile, discussed world cup qualifications, another couple from Australia, and a gentleman from Hanoi who was an NVA anti-aircraft gunner during the war. As we met he sighed..."ah...my former enemy...now my friend."

We swam, I drew in the moleskin, we ate prawns and tasted the local beer called Halida, we explored a cave, and shook hands heartedly as we disembarked for our return to Hanoi.

This was a contemplative journey full of Peace.

boat people in Halong








The locals who live on a floating village arrive to sell their bounty...I purchased bananas.


We really had to pinch ourselves during this entire 4 hour exploration.

Oh yes...we also dove in from beamside.


Myth has it that a dragon helped protect the local
people from pirates by turning itself into limestone thereby creating these natural barriers that mimic the contour of the beast.
This visual experience and peaceful pace
makes the 3 hour ride here all the more appreciated.
Aboard a "junk" about to explore the limestone islands of Halong Bay.



Harvesting since the beginning of time.


The sickle to slice the stalks...ever so sharp. We were invited to try.

Rice harvest on way to Halong Bay



Along road northeast to Halong Bay.
It's harvest time for second cutting of rice.

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

incense


streets of Hanoi


central lake in Hanoi


Hanoi

There is no question Hanoi is the cultural center of Vietnam. From music to architecture, art in the streets, community flower projects in the park, government buildings adorned with preparations for their 2010 millennial celebration...this is the thriving metropolitan heartbeat of the north.

Our hotel is centrally located so we began our day walking around the large Hoan Kiem Lake and first stop-a buddhist temple. From there our long day journey through the streets began...mainly through the old district in the northern section.

It is hard to imagine the bellowing warnings of US aircraft about to bomb the city. I don't know much about the targets sought after in those days. I may just have to visit the real Hanoi Hilton to bone up on my history here.

This has been a relaxing day and we have made plans to travel to Halong Bay tomorrow. This will be a long day journey. We almost talked ourselves out of it but our travel sense tells us to not miss this geographical phenomenon.

A brief story here. I messed up when locking our safe this evening therefore nullifying our combination...the safe now was inaccessible. No biggy...we call room service so they could send someone up with the master combination access device. Instead they sent up a maintenance worker thinking the AC was malfunctioning...the wrong guy. A young man named Choug who has been here 10 years. As our conversation dwindled while waiting for the real guy to arrive I break out my few photos from 1970. His intrigue was immediate. He begins to relate in very broken english that his father was VC and he had served in the Saigon area during the war. And after that war culminated in 1975 he fought in the Cambodian war. His father is still alive and after several minutes of conversation he takes leave...bowing and thanking me profusely for sharing with him my story. He was anxious to share this chance meeting with his father when he arrives home...over an hour away.

The Vietnamese are about as gracious a people as I will ever encounter. We never cease to enjoy each encounter no matter how trivial.

Capping our evening after some great cuisine of prawns and scallops we stroll back near the hotel and encounter a fellow we had briefly engaged when we arrived yesterday. A tall gentleman, shoulder length hair and seemingly travelling alone. We ask him to join us for a drink. He is an acting consultant from the UK, hired by the United Nations, working in Hanio to evaluate Vietnam's current economic dilemmas and will provide potential avenues for future growth for the nation. He comes from a family with 5 brothers and one sister and he is the number 2 son. Well ...that took the cake with Nancy... who is from a family with 5 sisters and one brother and she being the number 2 daughter. Bernard, with his charming english accent, stayed and chatted a good while before calling it the night. I'm sure we will encounter him again.

Tomorrow...Halong Bay.

Monday, October 5, 2009



ferry from Can Tho


Baskets of mangoes on way to market.




Our Interpreter looking at a picture of me from 1970...as we discuss the war.

The Moleskin



Journal writing is such a valuable endeavor on treks such as these. A full-inked fine point sharpie, a "moleskine", that legendary notebook, the "silent and discreet keeper of an extraordinary tradition..." a must!
Honor your trips...honor your thoughts...let your fingers do the walking.

Thankyou Gilly and Rene for supplying this essential travel soul-mate.

hello


friends




the silver lining

When Mike told me he was doing a blog, I must admit I was not that interested....my anti-technology nature was kicking in. Let's just go on our trip.....who would want to read this? Well, many days later, as I have read his blog and read emails responding to him, I have embraced this new form of communication and now have begun to "suggest" what photos to put in and what to say. Mike has accused me of now trying to control his blog...not really, but I felt compelled to weigh in today, because my experience watching him in Vietnam has been compelling.

The last two days have been incredible. The first day we took a boat trip along the Mekong Delta to two busy floating markets. There were no other tourists, so we felt as if we were immersed in the real culture of the river life. The men and women work tirelessly, selling and buying fruits and vegetables, rowing boats, maneuvering around each other and quietly and calmly conducting their daily activities. They were gentle and pleasant and did not mind that we were there. We took many photos and smiled and waved and they returned the same. It was a comfortable and incredible experience. We witnessed life as it has existed for hundreds of years, and not much has changed, as the boats and vessels on the water were ancient looking and classic. We spent hours on the river and meandered down smaller canals and saw life along the river. Poor yet prosperous in food and family, the people we saw were constantly engaged in an activity that supported their daily existence. We have, of course, hundreds of photos of this day, and will not bore you with them. But I think Mike has added a few (that technical step is not one that I have accomplished yet!)

The following day, we decided to do a bike tour of the local villages, rice paddies and farms. We had a guide and set off on a day of riding (mind you, I do not ride a bike often, if at all) and we rode 35 kilometers (I still do not know how to change that into miles, but I think it is about 20 miles). I must admit, I am proud of myself for even considering this, but when this far away from home and from my regular life, it is not unusual to do unusual things! Also, it is all flat, no hills! So we ventured forth through villages, passing simple homes, children, dogs, pigs, through rice paddies flooded because of the season, watching thousands of ducks in the fields eating insects on the paddies which helps the farmers, crossing many wooden bridges, watching the daily routines begin (we started at 5:30 am). And for the next 5 hours we continued on, stopping occasionally for photos and rest. We stopped at a Buddhist pagoda and met the monk who has lived there for 72 years and lit incense while he rang the bell. We stopped at a home where the family makes rice flour and watched the women and children working together in the task of creating this product that supports them. The father invited us in for tea....our guide interpreted for us and we chatted with him for a while. The most amazing part of this journey were the people along the way. As we passed the homes and families out and about, we started to notice the smiles and "hellos" that came our way. In fact, over the course of this trip, literally hundreds of people stopped, looked at us and smiled, waved and yelled "hello" in English. Our guide told us that they don't ever see Americans and were happy to see us and welcome us to their villages. We spent most of our bike ride feeling like celebrities, with grandmothers, children, mothers, fathers all stopping what they were doing, calling to their friends, and coming to the pathway in front of their homes to welcome us and say "hello".....apparently the only English word they know. And it became clear to me, watching Mike waving and smiling and talking to the local people, that although he was not able to go back to the location of his stint in Vietnam, he was spending a day immersed in the culture of the families and being welcomed and appreciated and accepted in a very, very special way.....it was a joy to experience this with him. He truly loved it. He stopped often, talked to children, smiled with the mothers and simply cherished this day. After a long ride, we decided to take a boat back to our hotel, and that led to another incredible few hours. We rode down canals that never ever see a tourist and became, again, a focus of attention of the people along the way. Local people came to the river's edge to watch us go by, all along yelling "hello" to us. Mike was standing on the boat, waving....I know this sounds so strange but we had to wave back and smile and let them know we were happy to be there. The sharing of emotions, without words, was priceless. Again, a great moment for Mike in his return to Vietnam. So, even though the itinerary of his planned journey back to Vietnam was completely changed, we both realized that this was, by far, an incredible "silver lining" of the Ketsana typhoon.

Tonight we have just arrived in Hanoi and I'm sure Mike will continue this blog soon.


With such grace their toes
grasp the gunnel as they make their way
from stern to bow
all the while carrying a bushel
full of lemons and limes
this dance in balance
while adrift and countering
numerous wakes of a myriad of vessels
all competing
to set up
to sell
to barter
all with such grace
their feet caress the wood
the stone
the rain
which has just kissed the ground
-m


Sunday, October 4, 2009

Going to Hanoi

We have had difficulty accessing internet these past few days.
It is now monday morning and we are packing for our trip back north to Saigon then fly to Hanoi.

The Mekong Delta: words cannot describe our encounters here...we are still digesting this unforgettable experience...we will catch up once we get to Hanoi

Friday, October 2, 2009

Can Tho and the Delta

I am writing from paradise along the Mekong Delta.

We were picked up at our hotel in Saigon (HCMC) courtesy of newly made arrangements through the travel agency we are connected with in Vietnam. The trip south will take 5 hours and we will travel in a new Toyota with the driver and an interpretor. Phuoc, our interpretor is the son of a former high ranking South Vietnamese officer who had been sent to "re-education camp" for 3 years after the communist takeover. The fact that I had been in the military had now opened up all sorts of dialogue. He in fact provides tours for many veterans returning ...so how lucky are we? Also...he has been ,many times, to the areas in the north to the exact locations we were to go and to where I "rumbled in the jungle". He said it is completely under water, very difficult to get to now, and that there would have been no way to travel there... so this info helped confirm we made a good choice...on to Can Tho.

The drive south along the infamous highway 1 is a sprawl of shanty domiciles adorned with assortments of whatever gets the family by...piles of dried coco shells for fuel, old tires, motorbikes requiring repairs, fruit of all varieties piled high. Our conversations as we drove coupled with the visuals passing by...we just had to pinch ourselves we were making this trek.

Schools are divided into am and pm hours so around 11am the first sessions were being let out so hundreds of students dressed in white flooded the roadside on bikes and scooters. The young women with their flowing white form-fitted outfits("ao dai") brought many memories back of the first "naisons" (young girls) I saw in 1970 making ther way hurridly along the mud slopped hamlets.

The landscape is slowly changing to more rice paddies and the yellowish hues of the tops of the rice plants clue you that harvest time is near...one of 3 major harvests throughout the year.

We are digesting more historical info from Phuoc about the way of life here in Vietnam and more on the delta region... which increases our anticipation about this uniquely fertile area.

We pass though Long Binh...a bustling town where many a battle was waged in the day. Along the roadway we stop to take in the beginnings of rice harvest...tarps with rice laid out in front of homes along the roadside to dry. Incense also is made by families for the temples and pagodas.
The colors of this process overtake you and since we light incense for our Buddha at home we asked to stop and visit a family incense making operation along the road. As you can imagine we became the fascination for the particular house we happened to walk by...we were invited in.

The family was very gracious sharing with us, smiling and intrigued. 3 young boys also mesmerized...one wearing a Chelsea FC shirt...well..that began an entirely new exchange.

We resume on our way to the ferry which will cross the Mekong to bring us to the area where the Victoria Hotel is. The ferry...one of six offered ...all working at the same time...is a short 20 minute ride across the swiftly moving current of the Mekong...a timeless river filled with history galore.

We arrive at this French provincially adorned hotel that blows us away. It is paradise along the riverfront. The town of Can Tho is along the same side of the peninsula but just a motor taxi ride away.

It is not crowded and we are blessed with a peaceful locale and zen-like aura.

Tonight begins a Lunar celebration in which the children are the focus for the evenings festivities. After a brief rest pool side we pack up and get our boat to town. It is bustling with young and old, all on scooters riding their young children who are practically sitting on the handle bars as they file along the main drag...pack tightly with revelers.

We dine on the 2nd floor overlooking this central part of town...it's noisy, happy families are all together, young teens hanging and making the scene...and a large statue of Uncle Ho overseeing the Lunar festival in honor of all the children.

A night time return on the river back to the Victoria caps our day.
Tomorrow we spend all morning on the water to visit the floating markets of Can Tho.

Thursday, October 1, 2009


Nancy getting her temp. reading prior to a school visit.

nancy


Finalized plans

After much deliberation, phone calls, countless spellings of email addresses over the phone...our arrangements have become final. We will get a ride to Can Tho in the Mekong Delta and explore for 3 days. We will then return to Saigon and fly directly to Hanoi for a 4 day stay. The trip now is not as broken up as was previously planned. We are ready to go.

Nancy's schedule has been a grueling one. I have still been acclimating to the pace and fitting in rest periods but I have realized that for almost 2 weeks she has not stopped. Her regimen of college fairs, presentations, meetings with her group, and of course, the evening social events have been constant. I have met many of her compadres last night...all are seasoned travellers with stories to tell. They are all now on their way to Singapore where earthquakes and a tsunami are the current threats. She bid farewell to most of them this afternoon.

10.1.09-cyclo thru the city

Nancy had one last commitment this morning so I took the opportunity to travel via "cyclo" throughout the city. Yes I could have rented a scooter...but I have 2 children, a wife, and an undernourished dog to help support so...rent the cyclo. (images below)
My driver , named Mahn, must have been the only person on the road not wearing a bandana kercheif over his mouth...which became evident as I heard his coughs above my head the entire ride. Other than that supreme exposure the ride was like being a slow moving heavy piece of dust caught up in a cyclone...not quite riding the main swirl of movement. Nonetheless we made our way in slow motion to a few destinations I wanted to see. First was the US Embassy where in 1968 the Vietcong attacks during Tet in broad daylight brought to light the extreme resolve of the North Vietnamese's intent to make known their business was not to lay down and die during our occupation. I was hoping there was a US Marine at the front gate but that was not the case.
Next...not planned...was a quick right turn to watch a soccer match we happened to stumble upon. Just a small caged-in field where a small sided match was taking place. I was ready to join in but players were wearing official shirts...figuring an official match taking place.
All soccer players know you usually can join in, especially if you are from outside the norm...but this time I stayed a spectator.
On to the Ben Thanh market for a stroll through. My route began in fabric areas , very narrow pathways and all women at their stalls grasping my hands and arms to keep me at their station trying to convince me what I needed to buy. It was the normal "confrontive" market approach all foreigners must get used to. I do wish I took some photos here as I made my way through but sometimes that too is all too difficult to undertake. I proceeded to the food area where the assortment and display of raw everything was about as "ripe" of an experience as I've ever had. By ripe meaning the combination of smells of raw meat and fish in the tight environment almost knocked me over. I'm not a "skiddish" dude but now I had one mission...I needed to get out in the open. So much for the market today.
A few more stops in the park for a walk, checking out the famous Hotel Rex, then several back street alleyways off the beaten path then back to the hotel. The 2 hour excursion cost 100,000 dong= 6 dollars. By the way we cashed some travelers check early and realized we were millionaires for a day. Do your math...1 dollar =17,834 dong.
I find it interesting that the hotel personnel when exchanging money are commonly counting in the millions...it's an everyday mathematical occurence.

Now back to the hotel to finalize our change of plans.

cyclo riding







Yupoong greetings